- Lyme Update
- Distember Outbreak in Chicago
- Recipe to De-Skunk your Dog
- Your Pet's Health
- Calories in Commercial Treats
- Housebreaking your Puppy
- Dog care document (doc file, 70k)
Lyme Disease Update:
Hudson Veterinary Hospital has conducted its own study on the efficacy of the Lyme vaccine on our canine clientele. Based on approximately 1000 dogs we have found the following:
- Non-vaccinated dogs have a 1:3 or a 33% chance of testing positive for Lymes
- Dogs vaccinated the first year decrease their chances of testing positive for Lyme to 1:10. After the second year and all subsequent vaccinations the chances of testing positive decrease to more than 1:25.
New Vaccine Protocol:
Based on the new data, we are now recommending that ALL dogs be vaccinated yearly against Lymes. If your dog has never been vaccinated, we will perform a baseline Lyme test to ensure his or her negative status. Dogs receiving the vaccines for the first time must be boostered in 3 weeks and then updated on a yearly basis.
Distemper Outbreak in Chicago:
Chicago Animal Care and Control officials warned dog owners to make sure their dogs were vaccinated after three cases of canine distemper were reported in Chicago this spring. Two of the cases were dogs in the same shelter - the other was a stray.
Veterinary Practice News,Volume 16, Number 9 - September 2004
Recipe to Deskunk your Cat:
- 1 quart FRESH hydrogen peroxide
- 1/4 cup baking soda
- 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid (Joy, Dawn, etc..)
Your Pets Health:
The information we gather from the comprehensive physical exam becomes part of your pet's medical history and can be critical in the event of an emergency or sudden illness. As part of the exam, the doctor:
- Checks for significant weight loss/gain
- Checks the condition of the legs, hips, joints and spine
- Assesses the coat and skin for signs of infection, fleas ticks or mites
- Checks the abdomen for abnormal masses or pain
- Listens to the chest for heart murmurs, irregular beats and abnormal lung sounds
- Examines the ears for mites, infection or inflammation
- Evaluates the nose and nasal passages for signs of respiratory disease
- Checks the teeth and gums for periodontal disease, tartar and cavities
Animals enter the geriatric stage of life between the ages of 7-10 years. It is more important than ever to maintain your animal's health with regular yearly exams. Screenings, like the ones listed above, in conjunction with comprehensive physicals can often detect diseases in the earliest stages making them easier to treat. Please note, that the doctor will only recommend the tests that are appropriate for you pet.
Watch your dog closely. Observe and record any changes that may be helpful to the doctor. Here are some questions you should ask yourself:
- Does my dog have difficulty getting up and down or is sore after running?
- Has my pet gained or lost a lot of weight?
- Is my dog coughing or does he/she seem winded after walking/running?
- Has my pet increased episodes of vomiting or diarrhea?
- Is my dog drinking more?
- Is my pet urinating more or sometimes has accidents?
- Has my dog's eating habits changed?
- Does my dog seem disoriented or slow to respond?
- Does my dog have bad smelling breath and/or red irritated gums?
- Is my dog acting like him/herself?
Calories in Commercial Pet Treats:
- Bonz: 90 Calories (Large), 70 Calories (Medium)
- Beggin Strips: 30 Calories
- Purina Biscuits: 120 Calories (Large), 30 Calories (Medium)
- Cheese Dawgs: 20 Calories
- Ribz: 50 Calories (Large), 15 Calories (Small)
- Purina Hearty Chews: 155 Calories
- Pupperoines: 45 Calories
- Milk Bones: 256 Calories (Extra Large), 108 Calories (Large), 67 Calories (Small)
- Cycle Bisquits: 35 Calories
- Flavor Biscuits: 22 Calories
- Pet-Tabs Plus: 11 Calories
- Favor Chewable Vitamins: 8 Calories
- Snausages: 22 Calories
- Granpaw Cookies: 32 Calories
- Lamb / Rice Bisquits: 117 Calories
- Fibre Formula Dog Bisquits: 23 Calories
Guidelines for Housebreaking your Puppy
START AT THE IDEAL AGE. The best time to start to housebreak a puppy is about 7 ½ to 8 ½ weeks old. At this age, you can teach the puppy where to eliminate before it has established its own preferences. But don't worry if your puppy is older when you start housebreaking: it will still learn; though it may take longer.
SIX TO EIGHT TIMES A DAY, TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUTDOORS TO ELIMINATE. Choose an appropriate spot to take your puppy immediately after removing him or her from a crate, after it wakes up, after play sessions and 15-30 minutes after meals. If you take the puppy to the same spot every day, previous odors will stimulate to urinate or defecate. Many puppies need 15-20 minutes of moving around and sniffing before they will eliminate. Stay with the puppy the whole time. Housebreaking problems can result if you are unsure whether the puppy has gone or not and you return to the house too soon. Remember the puppy needs to focus on the job at hand, so don't play with it until it has eliminated. A general rule of thumb is that a puppy can hold its waste for the amount of time correlating to its age. I.e. a puppy that is two months, can hold it for two hours, a puppy that is three months can hold it for three hours, etc. If you are out of the house longer than his or her age it is considered your mistake not the puppy's so you can not discipline him.
USE A KEY PHRASE WHILE YOUR PUPPY ELIMINATES. If you repeat the same phrase (e.g. "go potty" or "take care of business") every time your puppy eliminates outdoors, it will learn that this phrase means that it is the right time and place to eliminate.
ONCE THE PUPPY ELIMINATES OUTDOORS IMMEDIATELY REWARD IT. Reward the puppy by praising it. Giving it a treat or playing with it. Remember that this is to be done right away. The puppy will not learn to eliminate outdoors if the treat is given when you return to the house. Instead, the puppy will think it is being rewarded for coming inside.
SUPERVISE THE PUPPY INDOORS AS WELL AS OUTDOORS. Find a room in your house that allows you to watch your puppy as much as possible. This will help you catch the puppy if it starts to eliminate indoors. You can also leash the puppy or place a bell on its collar to help you keep track of it.
WHEN YOU LEAVE HOME, PUT THE PUPPY IN A CRATE. When you can't supervise your puppy, leave it in a small puppy-proof area such as a crate. If the crate is large enough to accommodate the puppy as an adult, partition it to avoid having the puppy soil one end and sleep in the other. Remember that a young puppy's bladder and bowl capacities are limited, so let the puppy out at least every four hours.
DON'T PUNISH AFTER THE FACT. If you puppy has an accident in the house, don't get the puppy and rub it's nose in it. This does not do any good because the misbehavior has already occurred. Instead, try and catch the puppy in the act. If you see the puppy ready to housesoil, don't swat it, but stomp your foot, shake a can of pennies, or startle the puppy by yelling, "Outside!". The puppy will most likely stop and you can then take it outdoors to eliminate. Harsh discipline will cause the puppy to hide his accidents which can lead to consumption of its own waste.
DON'T LEAVE FOOD OUT ALL DAY. Feed your puppy at set times every day, and remove the bowl after 20 minutes. Fresh water however, should be made available all day. This will create regular intervals at which the puppy can eliminate.
THOUROUGHLY CLEAN THE AREAS IN THE HOUSE WHERE THE PUPPY HAS ELIMINATED. It is important to clean a soiled area completely to remove the odors, otherwise your puppy may return to the same spot and housesoil again.
You can download this file and save to your hard drive by clicking here:
Housebreaking your Puppy (doc file, 1514k)
